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 We tend to take the hype every year out of Bordeaux with a grain of salt and discount the press’ tendency to jump on the bandwagon and go a little overboard without taking history and future into account. Well, throw away all our “conventional pessimism”.I went to Bordeaux to taste all I could of the 2005 vintage, hoping it matched the hype; and I was surprised.The vintage not only met expectations, I consider the press to be conservative in their assessment.Though I did not taste the 1982 vintage in barrel (the Bordelaise tend to be a little strict about tasting 10 year olds on their wines) I have had the pleasure of tasting many of the top crus from that vintage over varying periods of my lifetime and I believe the 2005s to be as good as a minimum, but having the potential to far out-develop the infamous “Golden Vintage”.
To give you an idea of how difficult a week of tasting it was, after three days of tasting over 500 wines; our group of trained professionals (though at times we wondered, “Trained in what??”) started making side bets in Euros to see who could find a poorly made wine first.It took us most of the day and 5 different tastings before we could find a flawed bottle.Now we did find “some” poorly made wines but figured not to worry; that winemaker is now looking for a new career because the fruit from the 2005 vintage was textbook perfect.Most of the Chateau were avoiding comparisons to 2000; preferring to call on the “Super Vintages” of 1990, 1982, 1961 and 1947.Through all of the noise; however, one Chateau clarified the success of the vintage with two concise points. First, the vintage is equal to, if not slightly superior to 1982 in terms of the quality of the fruit coming off the vines. The major difference in the quality of the fruit was in the 1982 vintage the fruit was beautifully balanced with low sugars, low-acids and low tannin; making for one of the most complex, elegant and balanced vintages on record.In 2005 the fruit came off the vine with EXACTLY the same level of balance and complexity; BUT with HIGH sugars, HIGH acid and HIGH tannin.Essentially the fruit was picked at the PERFECT levels of sugar, acid and tannin.If you used a laboratory to create this fruit, you could not ask for anything better than what Mother Nature provided to vintners in Bordeaux in 2005. The second major difference between 2005 and 1982 is the quality of selection and winemaking.In 1982 vignerons didn’t manage the vineyards with the same attention to detail and levels of discipline as they do today.With the proper management of vineyards in 2005, the Chateau reduced average yield from 80Hectolitres/Hectare to 40Hectolitres/Hectare (Hectare being about 2.5 Acres).This concentrates flavor and builds complexity. In addition the winemaking skills in 1982 would be considered somewhat antiquated and undisciplined in comparison to 2005.1982 saw a lot of large field lots being co-fermented with anywhere from 1 to 3 varietals in a 20,000 Gallon fermenter.In 2005 the trend at almost all top wineries is to ferment in small (2-3,000gallon) fermenters by varietal, lot and even by clonal selection.This micro-management allows for more consistency and greater control over the flavor profile in the final blend.This allows vignerons to manage the extraction of only the supple and round tannins and to control fermentation temperatures more closely.As a result, the 2005s are some of the silkiest, most complex wines in history. The 2005 1st Growths (Margaux, Mouton, Lafite, Latour, Haut-Brion) are like having the power of Arnold Swarzenneger mixed with the grace of Fred Astaire.We may never see this type of utopic balance in another vintage in our lifetime, though I’m hoping we do!!!! APPELLATION REVIEW Saint-Julien, Left Bank (Medoc)Generally shows well young, they are typically Cabernet based wines with red fruits and some stony/dustiness.Some of the Top Chateau are Gruaud Larose, Ducru Beaucaillou, Leoville Las Cases, Leoville Barton, Leoville Poyferre, Gloria, Brainare Ducru and Beychevelle.2005 is a classic vintage in Saint Julien.The wines were rich, creamy with layers of complexity and the hallmark dusty red fruits.This was both a very elegant and structured vintage for Saint Julien.Wines we’ve chosen will not only be approachable at release, but should develop nicely for 15-20 years.The top wines have the potential to last in the cellar upward of 50 years on the top properties.
Pauillac, Left Bank (Medoc)Pauillac has the most 1st Growths and is known for it’s big, bold, powerful and structured Cabernets.2005 is no different, only they are big, bold, powerful and structured with a touch of layered silkiness and elegance.Wait a few years to try once these arrive and simply put; most of these will last beyond our years.Blockbusters!!!!
Saint Estephe, Left Bank (Medoc) Graves/Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux (Medoc)Stony, dried berry, sometimes olivey on the aromatics, graves is known for medium bodied, subtly complex wines with a classic Bordeaux flavor profile.2005 will not disappoint, as all are solid and well made.However, with the quality and value so stunning elsewhere; we’ve been very selective.In particular the Bahans Haut-Brion was stunning and the Smith Haut-Lafite should be in every Franco-Phile’s cellar on a vintage like this.
Haut-Medoc/Medoc/Listrac/MoulisAll for of these “value” AOCs tend to have greater inconsistencies year to year, even on a year like 2005.So we’ve carefully chosen some of the best, as there were many and these wines truly represent a very high “QPR”, or Quality Price Ratio.We easily could have doubled the number of properties we’re offering here, but chose instead to make a stand on what we considered the “Best of the Best” in value.Each wine below was chosen for a different “Value” component, so read carefully and you’ll be pleased with your choices!!!
MargauxTHE Balance of Power and Elegance comes from the soils of Margaux.A combination of three local villages (Margaux, Arsac & Cantenac), Margaux is the class of the vintage across the board.We didn’t find a bad wine in all of the wines we tasted making it safer, but all that more difficult in making our decisions on what to pursue.These are the wines that most closely represent to me what Napa Valley could do with attention to detail and a touch of restraint.The wines are big, rich, bold, creamy in texture with gobs of opulent fruits, a slight stony/dustiness on the edges and they glides seamlessly on the palate and expand so elegantly on the palate that at times I felt as if I shouldn’t be enjoying it as much as I was!!!Hedonistic.The ultimate crowd pleasers, complex enough for the most geeky oenephile yet decadent enough to please our “more is better” friends.WOW!!!
Saint EmilionApproachable earlier than most cru AOC’s, St. Emilion is classic Merlot based reds built for richness, texture and age ability.The 2005 is no different, though maybe they dropped into BALCO first!!!Yep, I said it….Merlot on Steroids!!!Inky black with purple edges, thick velvety texture on the palate, powerful grip and tannin on the finish.This vintage in St. Emilion only proves that we have a long way to go in producing our own stellar/blockbuster Merlots here at home.
PomerolKnown for it’s silky texture, smooth structure and long finish.2005 does not disappoint.Actually, it’s a breath of fresh air for Pomerol after 2 disastrously difficult vintages in 2003 & 2004.There were some excellent wines from those two vintages, but it hasn’t been since 1990 (OK, maybe 1998) that we’ve seen this kind of high quality across the entire appellation.Pomerol is tiny, relatively speaking; so good luck finding Petrus on a year like this.We’re taking requests now….and certain it won’t be cheap….maybe $600-1,000 bottle!!!Overall, the appellation brought together it’s best offering super sexy, silky smooth wines of invariable depth and length.One for the ages.
SatellitesEvery year I taste through hundreds, even a thousand satellite properties; trying to find consistent quality and value or at least the phenomenal “one hit wonder”.Believe it or not, this year was brutally difficult.Usually I can eliminate 80+% of the wines by color and aromatics alone.This was not the case in 2005, color was deeply hued and brilliant in many cases, aromatics were clean and pleasant, and better yet; the wines were generally very well made. Thus, for those interested in 8 – 10 year value wines; many of the 2005 Cru Borgeois (Left Bank), Cotes and Satellites are phenomenal values.We’ve chosen a selection of top impressions from each appellation, so read the reviews and plan some space in your cellar!!!! Sauternes/Barsac, Bordeaux2005 Botrytis wines are rich, elegant and surprisingly aromatic.There didn’t seem to be the acidity of 2004 nor the decadent texture and depth of 2001, but barely a notch lower than those two great vintages. MERITAGE WINE MARKET 2005 BORDEAUX OFFERING What are Futures? When you purchase wine "futures" you are securing a price and allocation of that particular wine. You are buying the wine before it arrives in the United States. Why by Futures? There are 3 advantages to buying futures. 1. You lock in your price, and avoid the inevitable price increases. 2. You ensure your allocation of the wine that may sell out. 3. You avoid the rush for the wines when they arrive. TERMS & CONDITIONS of Futures Orders 1. Unlike most other retailers, you may purchase futures from Meritage Wine Market in ANY quantities. 2. A 15% cancellation policy applies to all orders. 3. No order is confirmed until acknowledged via Invoice or confirmation letter email from Meritage Wine Market. 4. We will ship ONLY to states that are deemed legal at time of shipment. 5. 2005 Bordeaux futures are estimated to arrive between January 2008 & September 2008. 6. Availability subject to our Confirmation. Any questions contact us via email (sales@meritagewinemarket.com) or phone at 760-479-2500. |
